PLEASE CLICK THUMBNAILS TO SEE LARGER IMAGES OF EACH STABLE SIZE
12ft x 12ft stable (3.6m x 3.6m) – 6 mats
Lay 6 mats in 2 x 6ft x 3 x 4ft pattern
Most 12ft square stables will actually measure slightly smaller as stable builders mostly use a mid-wall point dimension when specifying and building stables.
12ft x 10ft stable (3.6m x 3.05m) – 5 mats
lay 4 whole mats, cut 1 mat into 2 x 6ft x 2ft pieces (click icon to see lay-out)
12ft x 11ft stable (3.6m x 3.35m) – 6 mats
lay 4 whole mats, cut remaining 2 to 6ft x 3ft pieces (click icon to see lay-out)
lay 2 whole mats, cut 1 mat to 2 pieces 6ft x 1ft (click icon to see lay-out)
12ft x 8ft stable (3.6m x 2.4m) – 4 mats
lay 4 mats in 2 x 2 pattern
Check for fall/slope of floor – mats with grooves running along the length of mats should be laid with grooves running down the slope for drainage.
Try to lay mats without seams across door-ways – this is not always possible but should not create a problem if the mats are laid tight together and tight to walls. (see our fitting instructions)
Further stable plans will be loaded onto the site each day.
If you are unsure of how to lay your mats, simply email [email protected] for an individual plan to be emailed back to you.
12ft x 9ft stable (3.6m x 2.74m) – 5 mats
Fitting
Most customers decide to fit their own mats – by following these guidelines a standard stable can be
fitted easily.
– Measure the area to determine how many mats are required – if in doubt ring us with details or send a sketch.
– Decide on the best layout – if in doubt please ask – we’ll be happy to help!
– Clean and disinfect the stable and allow to dry (or sprinkle powdered disinfectant under the mats)
– Lay mats, normally working from the front of the stable to the back, ensuring there are no joins in the door area.
– Trim mats to fit – use a straight edge (preferably wood) and a sharp Stanley knife – by using soapy water on the blade you’ll also ease the cutting.
– Mark where you need to cut, measuring the gap to fit – allow approximately 10mm oversize beside walls.
– Cut the mat (using a broom handle or similar underneath to bend the rubber as you cut ensures easier cutting)
– Using a mallet or hammer, knock the mat into position. Wedging it against the wall ensures the complete floor is tight and all joins are sealed.
– A black mastic can be used to seal around the edge of the floor where walls are uneven or gaps are left.
A well-fitted floor should not allow any moisture through the seams and should offer between 10 and 15 years service in normal stable conditions. Use the same procedure when fitting mats to horseboxes or trailers. Many people find it easier to loose lay rather than bond down – in the event of a mat being ripped it’s then a simpler job to pick up the old mat and repair or replace it.
By using straight edged mats in the largest size manageable, you reduce the length of seams andtherefore reduce the possibility of urine passing through the mat to the underside. High ammonia levels in the stable can cause respiratory problems – if your horse or pony is prone to this we advise seaming the mats with a sealant to stop any fluid passing to the underside of the mat – we can supply cartridge sealant or adhesive where required.
See our Ramp Mats page for details on mats available spefically for the application – including our new moulded ramp mat in reinforced solid rubber with included rubber bars. We can supply suitable adhesives for both mat to floor and mat to mat bonding for both stables and horseboxes – please ask.